by Kara Machowski
Benjamin Schiller’s reputation is surely on the rise since joining the 50/Fifty Restaurant Group. He has opened the Sixth in Lincoln Square, Steadfast and Apogee at the Dana Hotel and Spa. He’s also a partner of The Berkshire Room and among many recognition, he was named “Best Bartender” at the Jean Banchet Awards. His humbleness certainly prevails, as you’ll mainly find him quietly positioned behind the bar, conversing with the guests. But seeing him in a dimly lit, dark chestnut wood encased corner with a bourbon in hand, even sitting, he appears as the big man on campus. Benjamin may as well be, with a persona that reminds you of the most dapper dude in school and still clinging onto chivalry. Respected by both patrons and peers, it only seems fitting that his career has propelled him into a world of fine wine, up-scale dining and fashionable spirits. With me, Benjamin Schiller divulges his single barrel secrets along with his favorite bar and a few insights for those in the biz.
1. Can you tell me a bit about where you grew up and how it is that you entered the restaurant industry?
BS : I grew up in McHenry County and I went to college in Peoria. Right after college I came to Chicago and I was part of the opening crew of the Peninsula Hotel when I was twenty-one and like two months old. That’s where I learned about fine dining, wine and service and that’s where I got a spark of interest for the industry. From then I worked in various bars and restaurants over the years and with some great people in the business and more recently joined the 50/Fifty Restaurant Group about four and a half years ago.
2. So you started your restaurant career at the Peninsula? That is a great yet intimidating place to start. Were you bartending then?
BS: I was actually doing wine service and serving and that’s really where I learned about particular wine. That was always my main interest, and then the mechanics of service and hospitality. That was kind of my solid foundation that I built everything else off of.
3. What is the memory that comes to forefront when you think about starting at the Peninsula?
BS: I remember not knowing a damn thing [he laughs]. I was so impressed because they had hired such an amazing team, food and drink leaders from Hong Kong, Germany, Switzerland and from France and Austria. Then locally they had hired a bunch of people who were fresh from Charlie Trotter’s and Tru. Both of those restaurants were literally in their heyday at that time. So I come in, barely twenty-one years old, and had this rather intimidating bunch teach me about wine and service and I ate it all up.
4. Your drinks are a bit contrary than traditional cocktails, what inspired you to push the limits?
BS: When I think of a drink, I usually don’t start with the cocktail itself, I begin with its purpose. Or what is the setting this drink is going to be in and what type of person would order it. I kind of like to work backwards. I start at the end, with how I want it to come across, how its themed appropriately and what its supposed to do. Basically reverse engineering the drink and what are the right ingredients, profiles and flavor that equal the correct format.
KM: Sounds like a scientific work of art to me.
BS: Yes, a lot goes into crafting the perfect cocktail, which aren’t always perfect, there’s been a lot of experimenting.
5. What’s your wine and spirit of choice?
BS: Well, with a meal I like to start with a glass of French wine, before a meal. My favorite French wine is Sancerre. If I have anything at all, it would be a Compari and soda or Aperol and soda, but typically I don’t drink much before a meal. After a meal I prefer single barrel bourbon or single malt scotch.
6. I feel like more-so recently, you’ll find alcohol connoisseurs are also large connoisseurs of bourbon. Is that true?
BS: It is. I’ve worked in some really high end and flux places and I really think that cost comes into it when you’re diluting spirits into drinks. Right now what you’re able to get, dollar for dollar, in the bourbon industry is just tremendous. It really holds up against any other spirit in the spirit category.
7. So then what is your favorite bourbon?
BS: My favorite bourbon is called W.L. Weller. I prefer the twelve year aged Weller. We actually go down to that distillery in Buffalo Trace roughly three times a year. We buy our own single barrels there. If I’m not drinking Weller usually I’ll drink Wild Turkey Kentucky Spirit.
8. In your opinion what typically makes a fabulous cocktail?
BS: What makes a great cocktail is how appropriate it is and how well it’s executed. Also how much care behind the bar is initially put into it. There’s an appropriate cocktail for sitting in an airport in the middle of the country then there’s one to have at a beach in the Caribbean. Both times you’re going to want to have a drink in your hand, and both times a different cocktail is appropriate. So finding the right cocktail for that instance and making it with a little bit of care, that’s really what it comes down to.
9. So crafting a cocktail is also about the ambiance?
BS: Yes, the French use the phrase terroir when describing wine, which is translated as earth and soil, but more so in the wine world, it describes the environmental factors that go into the crop and the harvest of each wine. I’m not going to say cocktails need to be terroir, but it should be fit in.
10. What’s your favorite aspect of being a Master Mixologist?
BS: That’s a good question. I would say mostly the exposure, meeting all of the great people and exploring the wonderful products. Its like having a backstage pass to the culinary world. Luckily, being in a position like I’m in right now, I’m able to source amazing products that are extremely rare. I’m able to visit the most beautiful distilleries in many different countries and have unique experiences with the people that make the spirits. I’m also able to peak my head in the most high end kitchens and finagle my way into a table. The hours are definitely rough, but the perks are well worth it.
11. You’ve gained a lot of notoriety recently, especially being named “Best Mixologist” at the Jean Banchet Awards. How has that changed the way that you approach creating cocktails?
BS: I’m constantly humbled and reminded that what the guests think versus what I think is much more important. I think that not enough people in my industry keep that thought in their mind. I’ve had many ideas that have just fallen flat on their face and then I’ve had some simple ideas that have really been embraced by our guests. So, keeping them as a forefront, being honest, humble and disciplined, those are the core ideas in making a cocktail that I come back to.
12. It sounds like it is more about connecting with your customer, understanding what they want and being able to provide that for them. Is that so?
BS: Yes, you have to entice and lead, but you can do that to a point. You can lead, but at the same time there’s a lot of alternatives out there right now, it is a very saturated market. So if you’re trying too hard to lead your guests, perhaps in a place that they are uncomfortable going, or a little weary of going, someone else will jump right in and meet them where their at. You really have to be cognizant of that fact.
13. What personal successes have you experienced?
BS: I was able to take a young bartender, Julieta Campos, under my wing and she was then tapped by the Whistler Group. She is head bartender at the Whistler now and was just nominated for the Jean Banchet Award. That was a tremendous point of pride. I am extremely proud of her. Being able to give her a bit of help on her journey and watching her take the reins was really amazing.
14. What are the most surprising aspects of being a bartender?
BS: You know, you’re never quite sure who is going to come in or when, you’re never quite sure who you're going to meet, especially with all of the interesting stories patrons tell. Especially with big corporate events and holiday parties, there's always a good selection new opportunities and luckily I have a front row seat to it all.
15. In your opinion, what makes a great bartender?
BS: A great bartender has to not only connect with their guests, but work well with their team. I find that there’s a lot of bartenders who are extremely focused on their product range but aren’t truly focused on their guests. They almost treat them with a little bit of disdain for not being on their level or not knowing as much as them. You never want a bartender who is more pretentious than you, no matter how upscale it is. On the other hand you’ll have bartenders who post up
while their team is left to scramble around them. So like a good cocktail or a good wine, you really have to have a balance and a good bartender is able to balance those two things.
16. So what tips or words of caution would you have for any bartender who is looking to amp up their career?
BS: A warning against the most obvious trap; we’re slinging booze and a bottle is always within arms reach. For some that could be fine and for others it could be a problem. So start honesty, being honest with yourself, take care of any problems you have and get into a healthy routine.
Then professionally, you can’t be afraid to bite off more than you can chew, you never know what you can develop a knack or compassion for. Also, you’re not going to be able to stumble into a good situation if you’re too firmly entranced where your at. You have to keep an eye on the future and where you want to be and every now and then take a chance on something that will scare you.
17. It feels like more and more cocktails are infused with childhood reminiscence such as the Silly Rabbit at the Sixth and your bong crafted cocktail, the Mr. Nice Guy at Apogee. Why is that?
BS: I think that a lot of that stems from just trying to make craft cocktails or cocktail bars more inviting. The introduction ten years ago of speakeasy type establishments that were a little more buttoned up was wonderful for the industry, but actually turned a lot of people off. I personally love the speakeasy trend and always thought that they were extremely well thought out. I liked the idea of being respectful of house rules or an etiquette so that everyone knows what perception they are getting into, but not everyone is as uptight as I am [he laughs].
18. So you like the Violet Hour I assume?
BS: I actually love the Violet Hour, I always have. I think that the bartender behind that, Toby Maloney, is one of the best bartenders of the past decade. Personally he is the best bartender that I have ever seen. I have always liked etiquette and have a collection of old etiquette books at my house. The idea of not speaking to a lady unless you’re introduced. While I get that that is a little much I like the idea of that’s the way it is in this place. I think that a city like Chicago is big enough that there’s enough room for establishments like that, and I like that. I used to watch AMC growing up with my mom, like Pride and Prejudice. After dinner there would always be some period piece with women in huge dresses and guys in evening jackets cursing at one another [he laughs]. Maybe that is where it stems from.
19. What do you see yourself doing personally and professionally in the future?
BS: Personally, I am getting married come January in New Zealand [excitement in his voice]. I’m very much looking forward to that, especially as the temperatures drop right now in Chicago, I keep looking to the calendar. Professionally, I joined the 50/Fifty group somewhat recently, and opened their fourth establishment where now we have over a dozens revenue centers. I definitely see myself hopefully improving career wise and staying and being a benefit to the 50/Fifty group for quite some time.
20. If you had to choose one restaurant outside of the 50/Fifty Restaurant Group to dine at, which would it be?
BS: I would have to say Juno. Juno is a tremendous sushi spot in the near north side of Chicago. As my interview concluded, I left Benjamin Schiller with a taste for a twelve-year aged Weller and to work on his next big idea. I gained some insight on the restaurant scene in Chicago, a bit more knowledge of bourbon and an affirmation to keep an eye on my bartender; making sure that they are checking all the boxes for what makes a great bartender to equal the perfect cocktail.
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